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Topic: C7 Fuel Filter Replacement

Posted By: keepingthelightson on 04/21/11 04:33pm

I am in the process of changing my secondary fuel filter (the one on the engine) and I can't seem to get a filter wrench around it nor am I able to get both of my hands down in the engine compartment from the bedroom access panel. Any ideas how to tackle this situation other than hiring a mechanic?

Thanks


05 Tiffin Phaeton 40 QDH w/4 slides
CAT C7 350+ HP MP-8, Aero Muffler, AFE Filter
06 HHR LT Toad
Ready Brute Elite


Posted By: Big Katuna on 04/21/11 04:42pm

I just had mine changed a few weeks ago. He got a strap wrench around it and off it came. It fought him as it was really overtightened, He was cursing the last technician and I informed him it was their shop a year ago, different tech.


My Kharma ran over my Dogma.


Posted By: wolfe10 on 04/21/11 07:06pm

As suggested, if your coach/chassis maker left the filter in an inaccessible location, MOVE IT. The only cost will be longer fuel lines. Many coach makers did this from the factory.

And if they deleted the manual primer pump on the secondary fuel filter, that is an easy thing to add if you have the Caterpillar secondary fuel filter. There will be a block-off plate held in place by two bolts. Remove it and install the Caterpillar manual primer pump.


Brett Wolfe
1997 Safari Sahara 3540
EX: 1993 Foretravel 36' U-240


FMCA Forum: www.community.fmca.com/index

Diesel RV Club:http://www.dieselrvclub.org/


Posted By: lanerd on 04/21/11 05:09pm

Hummmmm both of my fuel filters for my C7 are mounted off the engine and accessible from a side mount access door where my Hydraulic jack reservoir is located.

However, I have found that THIS works the best for me. It takes a 1/2 drive ratchet (or breaker bar) and you can use extensions of about any length to get it up to the filter. My original oil filter was on so tight that I had to use a 2' long pipe over the end of my breaker bar to get the filter loose and the filter wrench didn't destroy the filter in the process.

Hope this helps

Ron


Ron & Sandie
2013 Tiffin Phaeton 42LH Cummins ILS 400hp
Toad: 2011 GMC Terrain SLT2
Tow Bar: Sterling AT
Toad Brakes: Unified by U.S. Gear
TPMS: Pressure Pro
Member of: GS, FMCA, Allegro


RETIRED!! How sweet it is....


Posted By: kelmac on 04/21/11 06:53pm

I had a 2005 Journey with a C7. My fuel filter was on the top of the engine and I had to open up the floor in the bedroom. It took 2 guys to do it. my friend would go inside and loosen it up. I would lay on the ground streched out wth my arms up in the engine compartment,he would loosen it up ,I would turn it gently and watch the fuel run down my arm and lower the filter down to the ground. Then reverse the procedure to put it back in. DON'T FORGET TO PRIME IT!!!!
Chris, Betty, and Libby and Scotty The Motorhome Maniac's
2010 Journey Cummins ISC 360 HP 1999 Chev Toad


Posted By: badboy368 on 04/22/11 06:33am

it is MESSY... i just did mine and it is not fun. best if you have two people though. i removed mine...( not easily ) and handed it up to DW and put it in a plastic bag and a plastic container and took it outside. glad i only need to do this once a year. But still worth the peace of mind for sure.


40' pusher,350 turbo cat, pullin a 37' trailer haulin a drag car. oh yea baby



Posted By: siggyd777 on 04/22/11 11:18am

On my former C7,I did the filter change several times,but I did it from the bottom with a good set of filter pliers,about 14 ".
Backed the motorhome in close to a Drop-Off,so I could sit under the
overhang.
Siggy


Happy Trails
Siggy & Ursula
2011 Dutch Star 4020,ISL 400,Compr.brake,FTL XCR,IFS
Allison MH3000
2005 Saturn VUE AWD V6 , Brake Buddy,Roadmaster Sterling,
Camping since 1975 Pop-Up,1986 22Ft.TT,1999 Gas MH,2005 KSDP,
2011 DSDP,FMCA 368283 , NKK 17385



Posted By: keepingthelightson on 04/22/11 01:16pm

Okay an update. Thanks for all the advice. JJ removing the intercooler hose was a big plus. I was able to remove the filter and prime and install a new one. My forearms are about twice the size before I started. I did use a strap wrench and a 1/2 drive rachet.

Thanks again


Posted By: keepingthelightson on 04/22/11 10:27am

Thanks guys! I'll give it another shot.


Posted By: keepingthelightson on 04/30/11 01:33pm

jdewellz wrote:

i have a question about fuel filter changes on a freightliner chassis. is the fuel filter/water seperator your first or secondary filter.... i thought that it would be secondary, while the filter w/manual pump would be primary. also how do you shut off the fuel supply? thanks for any help.... john wells


John,
The water / fuel seperator is the primary filter (30 microns) while the fuel filter that is on the engine is the secondary (2 micron). There is no need to turn off any fuel switches, just make sure the engine is NOT running and you prime the new filter.

Good luck!


Posted By: J. J. on 04/22/11 08:07am

I removed the turbo hose. This allowed for easier access to the filter.

J.J.


Posted By: cbeierl on 04/22/11 04:03pm

You may want to consider moving that filter for easier access: Relocated Fuel Filter & Added Priming Pump .


Chris Beierl
2005 Winnebago Vectra 36RD



Posted By: sailor_lou on 04/22/11 08:47am

J. J. wrote:

I removed the turbo hose. This allowed for easier access to the filter.

J.J.


X2

Lou
05 Travel Supreme Envoy 38DS04


Posted By: jdewellz on 04/30/11 11:58am

i have a question about fuel filter changes on a freightliner chassis. is the fuel filter/water seperator your first or secondary filter.... i thought that it would be secondary, while the filter w/manual pump would be primary. also how do you shut off the fuel supply? thanks for any help.... john wells


Posted By: Old Snipe on 04/30/11 01:53pm

Cat says not to prime the filter, it's is written right on the side of the filter. I installed the priming pump, cost $86 and prime the secondary filter that way.

You can also start the engine and floor the gas pedal for a few minutes, the engine will stumble a bit as the filter fills and the air moves thru the fuel system. Once the engine runs smoothly, you can drop the rpms to an idle and let it idle for a couple of more minutes.

The reason Cat doesn't want the filters primed is because you will be sending unfiltered fuel directly to the fuel pump and injectors. They have extremely tight tolerances and any tiny dirt will cause damage. You might get away with it but it is not worth taking a chance.

If you must prime the filter, block off the center large hole and fill the filter thru the smaller holes that ring the center hole. That way the fuel has to pass thru the filter medium before entering the engine. It will take a long time to fill it that way.

Best Regards!


Paul D
2007 Winnebago Journey 39K, Cat C7 350 HP
(aka "R SANITY")
2003 Honda Element 4WD Toad
www.rsanityrvtravels.blogspot.com


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