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RLS7201

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Posted: 04/21/12 08:18pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Ford stopped production of the 460 in 1997. If that Mirada is truely a 1999 coach with 460, then it is built on a 1997 or older chassis. The old Ford 460 chassis was rated to pull 10,000# by Ford, but the RV manufactures added frame extensions and 3500# hitches. So the motorhome was re-rated by the coach builder to tow 3500#. If that 1999 coach has a V10, then it is probably rated to tow 4-5000#, by the coach manufacture. Make sure you know what you're buying.

Richard

rk911

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Posted: 04/21/12 11:08pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Blaster Man wrote:

Here is the tow capacity formula that is in most manuals and some brochures...been on here before, but worth repeating.

Tow capacity equals the GCWR minus the weight of the tow vehicle when ready to tow, or the hitch capacity, which ever is smaller. Do the numbers, it's very easy.


yes, but that assumes that the total weight of the RV as loaded for travel does not exceed it's gross-vehicle weight rating (GVWR). if the total weight of the MH exceeds it's GVWR then you should off-load the excess weight. and actually the best way to weigh the MH is on all 4 corners but if that's not possible at least get separate axle weights and compare to the axle's specific weight rating (GAWR - gross axle weight rating).

jaup09 wrote:

Tow vehicle? Do you mean the RV? The hitch capacity to me is not important because if it is underated for the RV's towing capacity we will be upgrading.

Thank you very much.


your 28' MH likely will come with either a Class III hitch (max tow rating of 5000-lbs) or even a Class II hitch (max tow rating 3500-lbs). in order to safely tow nearly 6000-lbs you'll need a Class IV hitch (max tow rating 10,000-lbs) plus a towbar capable of handling 6K.

i seriously doubt you're gonna be able to safely accomplish what you want to do.


'73,
rich, n9dko
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ClassAGeek

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Posted: 04/22/12 07:28am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Contrary to what many are suggesting, smaller gas MH's actually have higher towing capacities. You don't need a diesel. Your gasser can likely do the job, so please read on.

If you look at the Ford chassis specifications, you will find that most have a GVWR or combined weight hauling capacity of 26,000 lbs. It doesn't matter if the MH is 28', 31' or 35' (like ours), the combined weight is typically 26,000 lbs. There are exceptions, so find the CVWR number for the model you are looking at.

Now here is where 'being short' pays off. GVWR is the total weight of the MH + wherever it is towing. In general: smaller MH's weigh less. A 28' MH will often weigh 18,000 lbs fully loaded. This leaves up to 8,000 lbs of theoretical towing capacity. In contrast, our 35' MH weighs up to 22,000 lbs fully loaded. That leaves only 4,000 lbs of theoretical towing capacity. FWIW: A 10,000 lb F-450 pickup truck with the same drivetrain as the F-53 MH chassis, has a whopping 16,000 lbs towing capacity!!!

Now here's where it gets interesting. Your 28' chassis has lots of towing capacity. Your MH frame and tow hitch DO NOT! All Ford F-53 frames are modified by their respective MH manufacturer. They ALL add a welded frame extension to the rear of the bare chassis. This will affect CVWR. The MH manufacturer also adds a tow hitch that will support towing 5,000 lbs. maximum.

Here's the good news: A reputable towing shop can assess your frame and hitch, and upgrade your MH to maximum theoretical towing capacity for a few hundred dollars. Definitely worth looking into if you want to save $100K or so.


----
Happy Ford F-53 Class A Owner (2008 Gulf Stream)
2010 Ford Fusion Toad (with 6 speed manual transmission - the only way to tow)
Brake Buddy Vantage, Blue Ox Aladdin Tow Bar,
TST RV 507 TPMS, Power Master Voltage Controller

Doug and Cassi Glass

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Posted: 04/22/12 02:54am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Another formula.

"Hitch doesn't matter to me" + 5,500 or (6,500) + mostly flat terrain = DISASTER(looking for place to happen).

JMHOOC

jaup09

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Posted: 04/22/12 05:09am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Doug and Cassi Glass wrote:

Another formula.

"Hitch doesn't matter to me" + 5,500 or (6,500) + mostly flat terrain = DISASTER(looking for place to happen).

JMHOOC


When I posted "hitch doesn't matter to me" I was just saying that if the vehicle was safely able to tow more than what the hitch was rated for we would just upgrade to a different hitch. Class IV or whatever would be safe.

Thanks everybody. This is everything I needed to know. I guess we need to go a different route. I figure with what all we are trying to do maybe a car hauler with a living quarters would be best bet.

Doug and Cassi Glass

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Posted: 04/22/12 05:49am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Probably a good idea to go car hauler/toy hauler. Almost any motor home can get ANY weight trailer moving. Doing it SAFELY and being able to stop the combo is a whole different story.

Damage to the rv and it's drive train is another whole story.

Good luck in your quest and hope to see you on the road.

Blaster Man

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Posted: 04/22/12 12:20pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

jaup09 wrote:

Blaster Man wrote:

Here is the tow capacity formula that is in most manuals and some brochures...been on here before, but worth repeating.

Tow capacity equals the GCWR minus the weight of the tow vehicle when ready to tow, or the hitch capacity, which ever is smaller. Do the numbers, it's very easy.


Tow vehicle? Do you mean the RV? The hitch capacity to me is not important because if it is underated for the RV's towing capacity we will be upgrading.

Thank you very much.


Yes, the RV is the tow vehicle. The hitch capacity is VERY important. If you use the formual above and do not exceed any limitations, you will be fine and within all limits.

rk911

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Posted: 04/22/12 10:56am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

jaup09 wrote:

Doug and Cassi Glass wrote:

Another formula.

"Hitch doesn't matter to me" + 5,500 or (6,500) + mostly flat terrain = DISASTER(looking for place to happen).

JMHOOC


When I posted "hitch doesn't matter to me" I was just saying that if the vehicle was safely able to tow more than what the hitch was rated for we would just upgrade to a different hitch. Class IV or whatever would be safe.

Thanks everybody. This is everything I needed to know. I guess we need to go a different route. I figure with what all we are trying to do maybe a car hauler with a living quarters would be best bet.


there is much more to increasing the max tow rating of a vehicle, if it can be done at all, than just replacing the hitch. if that were the case we'd all be using Class IV hitches.

ClassAGeek

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Posted: 04/22/12 07:44am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

kcstepp1992 wrote:

I have a 28 footer and my towing capacity is 3500-4000 pounds. Im thinking most units that size have about that same capacity. If you want to pull more you are going to need a bigger unit or a diesel to pull it.


Paradoxically, when buying a Ford F-53 MH, you generally want a smaller MH to get higher towing maximum capacity

Go to a local car racing event. You will find more F-53s than anything else towing 10K lbs trailers. Many frames and tow hitches have been modified to handle the load - and yes (sadly) some are unmodified and therefore are overloaded.

When properly done, this is the most cost effective way to get a MH with this level of CVWR.

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